"Good acclimatization and physical preparation, stamina for 500 meters of ascent per hour, surefootedness, rock climbing experience, ice climbing experience up to WI 3 in seconding, some experience in mixed terrain.

"After a detailed briefing and meeting point agreement with the mountain guide, the ascent to the bivouac box at 3205 meters on the Glocknerwandkamp begins, which is the starting point for the north face tours. From here, you traverse below the entry of the Mayerlrampe to the Berglerrinne at 3180 meters. Through the sometimes difficult-to-cross bergschrund, it goes over mixed terrain into the couloir, which steadily becomes steeper. After about 2/3 of the wall height, there is a sometimes tricky traverse into the Aschenbrenner Couloir, which then leads very rewarding in a narrow tube to the northeast ridge head. From there, at a maximum difficulty level of IV, it goes directly to the summit of the Großglockner at 3798 meters on the northeast ridge.