From the perspective of the experienced mountaineer with ice climbing experience, the Mayerlrampe is certainly the most beautiful ice tour in the north face of the Großglockner. High alpine ice climbing and ridge climbing make this tour a versatile overall experience. Considering the objective dangers that always need to be kept in mind during north face ascents, the Mayerlrampe is certainly one of the most relaxed tours on the north side of the Glockner. Spring and autumn are the optimal seasons for this tour. Despite the relatively low ice climbing difficulties (around WI3), the north-west ridge is often deeply snowed during these seasons and for some, this presents a greater challenge than the ramp itself. Therefore, we highly recommend bringing rock climbing experience on ridges for this tour.
Requirements:
Good acclimatization and physical preparation, stamina for 500 meters/hour, surefootedness, rock climbing experience, ice climbing experience up to WI 3 in following, and some experience in mixed terrain.
After a detailed briefing and arrangement of the meeting point with the mountain guide, the ascent to the bivouac box at 3205m at Glocknerwandkamp, the starting point for the north face tours, begins. From here, you traverse to the start of the Mayerlrampe at 3180m. After a short bottleneck over the bergschrund, it continues in the snow gully, which is up to 50° steep, to the start of the actual ramp. From here, the impressive ice climbing begins, with a steepness of up to 70°, ending in a narrow bottleneck on the Grögerschneid at 3660m. Then over the northwest ridge to the summit of the Großglockner at 3798m. Afterwards, descent to the Salmhütte at 2644m. The guided tour ends there, and the descent to Glocknerhaus at 2136m and return to Kaiser-Franz-Josefs Höhe is self-organized.
Process:
Downloads:
Total duration:
1,5 days
Period:
May, June, and October
Meeting point:
Kaiser-Franz-Josefs Höhe 2350m - Auf Google Maps >>orStüdlhütte 2801m - Auf Google Maps >>
Walking time ascent:
10,0 h
Altitude:
1700
The highest point:
3798m
Number of participants:
1
Minimum age:
18 years
Included services: Organization of mountain guide, guiding, rental equipment (helmet, climbing harness, crampons, safety equipment), tour-specific climbing equipment, Großglockner ascent certificate
Excluded services: Meals, travel, half-board costs, and half-board costs for the mountain guide
1 person: 1100 € per person
Equipment list for a Großglockner ascent:
Mountaineering boots for the Großglockner ascent: