Combined ascent on the Großglockner from the firn flank and ridge climbing, including the spectacular tower.
The Teufelshorn is featured in almost every photo of the Glockner but is rarely considered a tour destination. However, the ridge from the lower Glockner saddle to the Teufelshorn, and then the west face of the horn itself, offers the best climbing on the Glockner. Sharp spires and very compact rock define the characteristics of this route. As a bonus, the Glocknerhorn is also crossed, and then the exciting northwest ridge of the Glockner is climbed. This route encompasses nearly everything one could encounter on a high-altitude tour with a Western Alpine character. A crossing like no other, sure to be an unforgettable experience!
Information
Requirements:
Good acclimatization and physical preparation, conditioning for 400 meters of elevation per hour, surefootedness, rock climbing experience.
The hike begins at the Lucknerhaus at 1918m and proceeds independently to the Lucknerhütte, reaching the Stüdlhütte at 2801m, where the meeting point is in the evening. The next morning, the guided tour continues over the Teischnitzkees to the entrance of the Draschrinne at approximately 3300m. The ascent follows the gully at a steep 45° angle to the lower Glocknerscharte at 3596m, and then up a beautifully compact and exposed ridge to the Teufelshorn at 3677m. From there, you rappel down and continue over the Glocknerhorn at 3680m and the North-West ridge to the summit of the Großglockner at 3798m. The descent is via the normal route to Adlersruhe and the Ködnitzkees back to the Stüdlhütte.
Process:
Downloads:
Tour dates
Total duration:
1,5 days
Period:
"Mid-June to early October
Meeting point:
Stüdlhütte 2801m - Auf Google Maps >>
Walking time ascent:
7,0 h
Altitude:
1950
The highest point:
3798m
Number of participants:
1
Minimum age:
16 years old, younger persons only with the consent or accompaniment of a legal guardian.
Services
Included Services: Organization of a mountain guide and overnight reservations, guiding, rental equipment (helmet, climbing harness, crampons, safety equipment), Großglockner ascent certificate.
Excluded Services: Costs for half-board accommodation, meals, travel expenses, and half-board costs for the mountain guide.
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Prices
1 person: €715 per person
Videos
"Equipment list for a Großglockner ascent:
Mountaineering boots for a Großglockner ascent:
