The famous ice ascent has been significantly affected by climatic changes, which are even more pronounced in high-altitude areas. However, the Pallavicini Couloir remains highly rewarding. In good conditions in spring or autumn, it offers a magnificent snow ascent that ends in combined climbing below the "Scharte" and continues along the normal route to the summit of the Großglockner. The new bivouac in the rear Glockner Cirque has provided an ideal starting point for the tour since 2020. While an overnight stay there is comfortable, due to the conditions, an early start is usually necessary to safely navigate the long couloir.
Requirements:
Good acclimatization and physical preparation, conditioning for 500 meters of elevation gain per hour, sure-footedness, rock climbing experience, ice climbing experience up to WI 3 in seconding, some experience in mixed terrain.
After a detailed pre-discussion and agreement on the meeting point with the mountain guide, the ascent to the bivouac hut at 3205m on the Glocknerwandkamp begins, which serves as the starting point for the north face tours. From here, you traverse below the entrances of the Mayerl Ramp and Bergler Couloir to the prominent exit of the Pallavicini Couloir at about 3170m. Through the bottleneck, you ascend the wide couloir until it transitions into steep mixed terrain. From here, you climb in several rope lengths at grade IV to the upper Glockner Scharte (3766m), and then continue to the summit of the Großglockner (3789m). Afterward, you descend to the Salmhütte (2644m). The guided tour ends here, and the descent to the Glocknerhaus (2136m) and the return to Kaiser-Franz-Josefs Höhe is done independently.
Process:
Downloads:
Total duration:
1,5 days
Period:
May, June, and October
Meeting point:
Kaiser-Franz-Josefs Höhe 2350m - Auf Google Maps >>
orStüdlhütte 2801m - Auf Google Maps >>
Walking time ascent:
10,0 h
Altitude:
1700
The highest point:
3798m
Number of participants:
1
Minimum age:
18 years
Included services: Organization of mountain guide, guiding, rental equipment (helmet, climbing harness, crampons, safety equipment), tour-specific climbing gear, Großglockner summit certificate.
Excluded services: Meals, travel, and half-board costs for the mountain guide.
1 person: €1100 per person
Material list for a Großglockner summit ascent:
Mountaineering boots for the Großglockner summit ascent: